Materials

Our ethos has always been to pursue excellence without allowing costings to be a distraction. For us, quality in every detail is the definition of value. This approach has given us the freedom to take our time sourcing and selecting the best leather from tanneries and suppliers across the world.

Based on appearance, texture and integrity we find the material which perfectly suits each stage of the process, from handstitching uppers to adding final style details in the closing room.

Our commitment to traditional leathers and techniques which have proved their worth over centuries also fits seamlessly with E.Woodford principles.

Add in the experience and knowledge of five generations of artisan shoemakers and we are able to produce footwear that exceeds expectation.

A tricky material to cut, machine and especially difficult to hand-last but the end result is like no other leather. This is why we make the extra effort necessary to work with Shell Cordovan.

A leather that rolls rather than creases, giving unique shine and colour changes.

With a grain that differs across the boot and shoe, we hand-cut to ensure consistency between pairs. Despite its thickness, bison leather is supple and hand-lasts exceptionally well. The finished pair will be both hard-wearing and soft to the touch.

A shrunken, naturally finished leather with variation in grain across the skin.

A hard-wearing suede with a tight nap, hand-cut with precision to maintain uniformity in the print.

Available in two unique prints: Ernest, featuring a tighter pattern that enhances the punches in brogue boots and shoes; and Edwin, characterised by a deeper and larger print selected for use on larger patterns.

A classic calf leather with a soft texture and a matured, natural character, ideal for hand-lasting and hand-welting.

Immersed in oak bark tanning pits for over 15 months, this leather undergoes a meticulous process to achieve a supple yet structured texture.

Aniline dyes are transparent and allow the natural colour and beauty of a leather to be seen while ageing in its own unique way. Only natural oils and the highest quality hides can be used for this process.

Pull-up calf leather, vegetable-tanned in limited batches over six months in small pits.

Utilising smaller skins gives a smooth luxurious finish for your foot to sit against. We use this leather for all E.Woodford boot and shoe linings as it sets firm to the last after wetting and moulding, providing unmatched structure and support.

This Italian baby calf leather is tanned in traditional wooden drums over eight weeks in a Tuscan tannery. It is the top selection of raw material sourced from the Alpine region and is usually used for the uppers of bespoke shoes.

When sourcing the leather for all E.Woodford boot and shoe bottom stock components, J&FJ Baker was unsurpassed.

The Devonshire based company can trace 500 years of history using the finest English calf, tanning it using a process unchanged for half a millennium. We’ve used their leather in shoemaking for years and found nothing compares for any task, at any stage of the shoe making process. We wet-form it, allowing it to mould and set precisely to the shape of the last. This skilled and time-consuming process is the only way to achieve the finish we are looking for.

Oak bark tanned leathers vary in density across the skin and over time, we have learned to use different parts of the animal for each component. Shoulder is ideal for toe-puffs, counters and insoles, while bend is best suited for soles, welts, seat-lifts and heels. Looking closely at your shoe soles, you may be able to see faint patterns from where the oak bark sat against the leather in the tanning pits.

At E.Woodford, we craft shoes to last a lifetime, so naturally, we provide a full resoling service for all E.Woodford boots and shoes. Typically, depending on the frequency and intensity of wear, we anticipate a resole service requirement every three years or so.

This service entails repositioning the shoe on the last and removing the old bottom stock. Our craftsmen then handwelt the upper once more, incorporating fresh stacks and heels.

All of our leathers are either vegetable or oak bark tanned. To highlight this, we leave all edges untreated, allowing upper, lining and sole to boast their unique cross-section.

We use the traditional method of slip beading to strengthen the topline of our footwear, this is a process of folding a strip of calf leather and inserting it between the upper and lining. This method is also one we use on the tongue, though in place of calf leather we use signature green cordovan, a hidden flourish of quality.

Your final pair of E.Woodford boots or shoes will be expertly cut from the highest quality section of your selected skin. The remaining portion of the skin is set aside for fit trials.

The only exception to this rule is footwear made from Shell Cordovan; in this instance, we use our Spanish Anniline Calf Leather to make your trial pair.

All trial shoes and boots, where suitable, are also available for purchase. Feel free to enquire with your personal assistant for additional information.